SoKno Taco Cantina is situated on a corner in South Knoxville that doesn’t quite fit the Mexican restaurant’s vibe.
There is a Kenjo gas station across the street and Round Up Diner, where a homestyle meal is barely more than $5. The intersection is surrounded by modest single-family homes and churches, and the warehouse, minimalist vibe of SoKno Taco Cantina would fit better in Happy Holler or just right downtown.
Regardless of the location, though, Knoxvillians will travel for new foods, and when I went in Monday night, the parking lot was full and the outside patio was packed. My friend and I were seated quickly inside an interior that boasted plenty of tables in an open concept.
Right away, I was impressed by the cantina’s prices. Other taco spots in town can run upwards of $15+ for tacos with little or no sides, but SoKno Taco Cantina’s taco platter was $9 for two tacos with whichever meat the customer ordered, kidney beans smothered in queso, Mexican rice topped with pico de gallo, chips and salsa. My friend and I both decided on the taco platter with one chorizo and one carnitas taco each; and for a dollar more, we each added a small side of queso to our meals.
SoKno Taco Cantina also boasts an impressive craft beer list that also had the right price. I ordered a Bell’s Two Hearted Ale for $4.25. It would have cost closer to $7 downtown.
Our food came, and we were both amazed by how much food $10 had gotten us. I covered my beans and rice in the different hot sauce options and dove in.
For the sides, the kidney beans in queso took the cake. SoKno Taco Cantina makes their queso with a mix of melted queso and smoked gouda cheeses with chorizo, and to add it on top of some slightly refried beans was a solid move on their part. The rice didn’t stray too far from traditional preparation, the tortilla chips were typical restaurant style and the salsa was just a solid, mild red sauce.
The meat of the tacos, though, was by far the star of the meal. The carnitas were juicy and tender with a great smoky flavor, while the chorizo had that great traditional flavor that’s made it a favorite in Mexican cuisine. Other meat options included blackened cod, diablo shrimp, grilled steak and chicken among a few others, and I have every intention of going back to try them.
Despite what worked in the meal, though, what I really missed was some spice. One of the best parts about Mexican food is the spice, and SoKno Taco Cantina could have stood to mix in more cumin or chile powder. That’s not to say the food wasn’t good, but without queso or cilantro, it was a little bland.
Overall, the price was right for the neighborhood (and the college student budget), but as SoKno Taco Cantina grows, I’d hope to see a little more pizazz and flavor in the food.
