Fresh baked breads and house cured and roasted deli meats have been the norm at Frussie’s Deli and Bakery since it opened in 1986.
However, the veteran deli is still getting back on its feet since its relocation to South Gay Street on July 11 this past summer. The deli sits catty-corner to the Bijou Theater, setting it apart from the over-saturated restaurant district of Market Square.
This location may sound detrimental, but in my case, it helped catch my eye. The brick front of the downtown building brings you back to an era when “mom and pop” stores were peppered along Gay Street.
The interior fits its cover, adopting modern mid-century décor with a dash of the 1920s for class. Jazz music plays overhead and several art nouveau posters hang on the walls.
A chalkboard displays the menu, which is almost entirely deli sandwiches (surprising, I know). Don’t be scared off by the apparent lack of variety. Frussie’s sticks to what they know, and they know how to do it right.
I stood debating between the Reuben (house-cured corned beef or turkey, sauerkraut, swiss and 1000 island dressing) and the James Dick’s Favorite (pork loin, caramelized red onion, provolone, mayo and horseradish). Both came served on your choice of freshly baked bread with a side of chips.
The cashier noticed my indecision and asked if I wanted his advice. After I briefly explained my dilemma, he shook his head and said that both sandwiches were good, but if I wanted something great I should try the pastrami with swiss and horseradish on marbled rye bread. This is the chef’s own personal creation.
My dining companion ordered the Reuben on marbled rye, and I went with the off-menu suggestion. We sat down, and from our table beside the counter we could see the chefs buttering bread to toast on the grill as they laid out meat beside it. Thankfully our meals arrived quickly, and they disappeared almost as fast.
My sandwich had sounded too simple without the eight ingredient list present on most lunch menus, but I had misjudged what four well-chosen ingredients could do together. It was warm, delicious and just enough. I felt satisfied but not like I needed a nap before continuing with my day. While the Reuben was a bit heartier, my dining companion easily finished his meal as well.
The fresh-made ingredients gave the simple recipes a no-pretenses taste that was a welcome surprise to discover downtown.
Frussie’s Deli and Bakery is open from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Monday through Saturday.
Frussie's Deli & Bakery has their chalkboard menu full and ready.
