Hometown brewing returned to Knoxville recently with the opening of the

Smoky Mountain Brewing Company, the city’s first such establishment since

the turn of the century. The buzz about the eatery since its opening has

been high praise, so members of The Daily Beacon editorial crew

ventured there last Friday evening for a staff social.

After some confusion over reservations, which was no fault of the

restaurant, we settled into a lounge area to await our table. The brewpub

earns many points just on atmosphere. It is a large space, with smartly

designed lighting and interesting curios all around. The upper deck of

the restaurant looks down over the bar and brewing vat. The vat is an

impressive centerpiece, both functional and aesthetically intriguing.

In the lounge, several members of our party tried the house brew. The

light Summer Wheat proved to be a quality beer, definitely better than most

domestics. The darker selection, a stout Port, met with approval also.

The restaurant manager was very attentive in accommodating us after the

reservation mix-up. After we were seated, service was prompt, and the

atmosphere inspired a festive attitude around our table.

The menus are an interesting adventure in their own right. Detailed and

imaginative descriptions of each dish, from appetizer to entree, encouraged

experimentation with the selection. Personally, I didn’t want to try “just

a sandwich,” though even these were intriguing.

The pricing of meals was a pleasant surprise. With the restaurant’s

upbeat, upscale appearance, I expected to pay a bit more than usual. Prices

were comfortably in the upper moderate range, between $5 and $7 on

average.

Before the entree, we were treated to the house bread and beverages. The

fluffy sourdough was fresh and tasty. Only one member of our party asked,

“Where’s the butter,” and he was severely chastised. Iced tea came to the

table in huge Mason jars, and the tea glasses and beer were refilled

promptly.

The Potato Jackets, generously sliced potato skins, were well prepared

also, served with cheese, bacon and sour cream. Portions were such that

everyone had a share. The portions, in fact, were generous across the

board.

I finally decided on the Shepherd’s Pie. It came in a deep, fat ceramic

bowl. The top layer of well-cooked mashed potatoes hid a spicy mixture of

beef and vegetables. Similarly prepared was a spicy, but not too hot,

casserole called Toad in the Hole, which was rated “great” by those who

tried it.

The Poacher’s Pie, seasoned chicken served on a flaky, puffy pastry,

received high marks from several of our crew. The “ample” amount of chicken

and pastry was light, but filling.

One editor tried the Lady Godiva Chicken, another dish of generous

portions. Though a little heavy on the lemon, this met with

satisfaction.